For those coming to Angkor on a budget, HanumanAlaya provides a great base on the edge of town. It's a small lush world of gentle pleasures: fountains pour into the swimming pool, curtains of manicured jungle shield you from the outside world, and airy timber-framed interiors bring in the breeze. Grab loungers by the pool for a snooze in the sun or escape to the shade of the restaurant, where bamboo blinds and ceiling fans keep you cool. There’s also a covered balcony with low-slung Khmer sofas, and a spa for an invigorating foot massage at the end of a busy day.

The 13 spotless rooms come in traditional design with wooden floors, silky bedcovers and lots of space. The style may not be cutting-edge, but the rooms do the trick nicely and the comforts are undeniable: smartly-dressed beds, gallons of hot water in quirky pink bathrooms and Indochina’s greatest luxury: air conditioning. Elsewhere, lotus petals float in copper water jars, colourful gourds hang in the trees, orchids grow wild in a sun-trapping courtyard. You’ll find friendly staff, too.

Good rooms all come in the same traditional style. Expect varnished wood floors, panelled ceilings, big beds covered in crisp white linen and silky bedcovers. Most rooms are big, none are small, some are huge, and each come with wooden armchairs. All are fine, but it is worth splashing out on the first-floor rooms, which get more light and open onto a very pleasant covered balcony. Families should ask for the large suite with 2 double beds which can sleep up to 4.

When you arrive you find scented oils burning in your bathroom. You get ceiling fans, shuttered windows and air conditioning; everything you need to keep cool. All rooms have bathrobes and slippers, TVs and minibars. You'll also find an easy-to-use safe, very useful for cameras and passports. Quirky bathrooms come with pink 1980s baths and good overhead showers; just the ticket, if a little retro.

The hotel also has 3 simple rooms in an old homestay near the river, which we haven't seen. You get similar mod cons - a/c, (shared) hot water, TV, minibar - but you'll have to walk to the main hotel for breakfast and for a swim, so we don't recommend them unless you're on a very tight budget.

You can have breakfast, lunch and dinner here, with a full menu that offers Khmer food alongside Western staples. Eat in the shade of the restaurant/bar, which overlooks the pool, with the gardens gathered around you and the odd statue of Buddha to keep you calm.

For breakfast take your pick from Khmer noodles, fried rice with chicken and basil, bacon and eggs or croissant and toast. There’s also Earl Grey tea, strong coffee, freshly-sliced fruit and freshly-squeezed juice. Light lunches around the pool are a good way to break the day, so come back from the temples for a green mango salad, fried pork with ginger or a pizza. The evening menu is pretty much the same, with an accent on Khmer dishes: smoked fish soup with coconut milk, fried chicken with cashew nuts, stuffed tomato with minced pork. There’s a short vegetarian menu, too.

Alternatively, head into the old town for streets busy with hungry tourists and find a vast array of places to eat. Most are found on or around Pub Street - anything from Khmer Kitchen (one of the first tourist restaurants to open in town, which serves pretty good local food at rock-bottom prices) to Abacus (an informal French restaurant popular with ex-pats, who come for carré d’agneau with Dauphinoise potatoes and a good bottle of Bordeaux). If you are in town for a few nights, make sure you head to Viroth's on the Wat Bo Road for the best Khmer food in town.

Bliss out in the hotel's Sita Spa with a whole range of treatments. The Herbal Steam Sauna is the perfect way to wind down after a hard day's sightseeing, or you can have a Seaweed Wrap, a Honey Milk jacuzzi bath or an invigorating foot massage. Residents get a 15% discount.

Who goes Couples, families and single travellers - mainly Americans and Europeans.

Children Children are welcome (2 per room max), but the general emphasis is on tranquility and the swimming pool is not cordoned off, so you'd need to watch toddlers carefully. There's 1 large family suite with 2 double beds which can sleep up to 4.

When to go Avoid March to May, the hottest season, also the least popular. The rainy season is over by November and the weather is relatively cool (but still hot) through to the end of February (making this the most popular time to come, thus the busiest). The paddy fields are at their lushest in the rainy season (June to October), which is also the coolest time of year; the rains rarely lasts all day. Come as soon as you can. More and more people are hearing of Angkor’s matchless splendour and in 5 years Siem Reap will have changed beyond recognition. There will also be more tourists at the temples.

How long for You need at least 3 full days to do the temples of Angkor justice, which means you probably want to stay 4 nights.

What to take Bring a good pair of comfortable walking shoes, a small umbrella and a lightweight waterproof jacket. If you're coming in November - December, be sure to pack a sun hat and sun cream as the rays can be punishingly hot if you're strolling around all day.